Palio Horse Race in Siena, Italy

Imagine standing inside a crowded piazza in Italy as horses and their riders soar around you at top speed, horses hitting the padded walls, and jockeys being thrown and collapsing onto the dirt track.  Each summer, in Italy, tens of thousands of spectators come to Siena to experience the horse race called Palio.  It is the most unforgettable race I’ve ever attended!

If you are fortunate enough to be in Siena on July 2 or August 16, you can join the mob of people that have come to this historic race that has been held every year since 1656.  Although the actual race only lasts about 90 seconds, the whole day is devoted to the event.  In the morning you can watch the horses enter the church, where they and their jockeys are blessed by the local clergy.

 10 horses compete in the race, and they each come from a different district, or family, of the town.  The physical prize is a silk banner that has a picture of the Virgin Mary.  However, the true prize is honor and also bragging rites until the following year.

Throughout the day the different districts parade their jockey throughout the town.  Both the horse and jockey are donned in colorful costumes in the distinct colors and symbols of their district.  There are flag throwers and people chanting as they follow the jockey throughout the streets. The crowd around them is dressed in medieval outfits and they are adored as they stride through town.

The name of the jockey is held secret until the day of the race because kidnapping has been known to happen, as well as drugging of the horse.  The jockey and horse are closely guarded every second until the race.

The actual race is over very quickly, but it is a fierce competition with jockeys often falling off their horse or the horse getting hurt as they whip around the tight corners of the piazza.    The jockeys ride bareback and it is not uncommon for a horse to finish without a rider.  In fact, if a horse crosses the finish line alone it still counts as a win for the district.  Also, the second place finisher is considered the loser and the worst rider of the race.

After the race is the most interesting and unexpected part.  Grown men are sobbing in the street while other men consoled them.  They take this race so personally and their loss of honor is a reason for the sadness in the streets.  Inside of Piazza del Campo is a completely different story.  We walked back over after having dinner and it was like a dream.  There were tons of long tables in the center of the piazza and candles lit every window.  People were singing songs and hugging and expressing the pride in their district.  It was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced and should be on everyone’s Bucket List.

Tips:

• Book a hotel room early since they fill up quickly.
• The actual race doesn’t start until 7:00 but at about 4:00 the begin to close all the gates in town.
• Bring your own food and water to enjoy throughout the day without having to wait in long lines.
• There is no shade in the piazza so you should bring sunscreen and hats for children.